A Travellerspoint blog

Mar 2007

Byron Bay

its a surfers paradise!

sunny 30 °C
View The Great Escape on teamnojob's travel map.

On the way down from Brisbane we decided to stop off somewhere on the Gold Coast for some wholesome australian fun, and after receiving some advice that Surfers Paradise was way more commercialised, we ended up at Byron Bay.

I think I fell in love with this place at first sight. It is the complete aussie version of our english sea-side town, but without the tacky promenade, the falling down pier and row after row of chip shop, candy floss stand, ice cream van... plus it is on the east coast of Australia so it is hot, sunny and the surf is good!

Obviously the first thing you notice here is the beautiful beach and rather large waves! But then you look back to the shore and realise that something is missing from this picture - where are the skyscraper hilton hotels that we are used to, and the many other unsightly features of a beach resort? Byron has none of them. It is more or less untouched by tourism apart from the odd 'bucket and spade' type shops flogging a bit of Byron merchandise. As you walk down the main street the other thing that strikes you is how laid back the place is. It is a magnet for surfer dudes and beach babes, everyone is really friendly, and it is the perfect place to totally chill out.

As we drove down the main streets of Byron, I realised that this was the place to splash out in the shopping department, so first thing Saturday morning (after a hearty breakfast at a local cafe) I left the guys to more manly things, and hit the abundance of surfer and hippy shops lining the high street.

In the afternoon, after I had exhausted my bank account for the day, me and Chris decided to hire body boards for an hour while Rich took a walk up to the lighthouse.

Body boarding to my delight was a lot of fun - you could spend ages getting frustrated waiting for the right wave to catch, and not going anywhere, when suddenly you are on your board and being rushed all the way to (and sometimes up!) the beach at what feels like a phenomenal speed. Suddenly you forget your earlier struggles and frustrations and jump straight back in the water to do it again!

Unfortunately, the sights of Sydney were calling us and we had to leave on Sunday morning, but not before we took a short trip to the famous Byron market. I had a browse of the stalls for a while, and then stumbled upon a crowd of people watching a one-man-band, a guy calling himself Juzzie Smith. This guy was amazing. Not only was he playing the guitar, harmonica, and vocals, but he also had a digerido to his right, a drum between his knees, some bells, and weird drum synthesiser thingy (i'm sure Rich could give me the real name but he is not here at the moment) that he kept hitting his left foot with!! Having not bought anything at the other stalls, I decided to splash out and buy his album, as apparently he was raising money to help his friend who was trying to save the Tasmanian forest. It was definitely worth the money. If only we had a cd player in our campervan and then I could actually play it!

From a very chiiiiiiillled out...

Laura x x x

Posted by teamnojob 17.03.2007 2:51 PM Archived in Backpacking | Australia Comments (3)

Brisbane to Sydney

and everything in between...!!

all seasons in one day 23 °C
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Hello again,

Its been a while since our last blog, and seeing as we're now in a hostel (out of the van at last - albeit for a couple of days!!) and have free internet its much easier.

When I spoke to you all last we were in the fine Queensland city of Brisbane. In the end we didn't stick around there that long, but long enough for me to get a bit of exploring in. Whilst Brisbane doesn't have the noteriety of Sydney, Melbourne or Perth, I found it to be a really nice compact Aussie city, with plenty of culture and some really nice sights.

On our main day spent there (after Australia Zoo), I was flying solo in the morning and after meeting up for lunch, again in the afternoon so I'll take on the responsibility for representing my view on Brisbane. The Museum of Brisbane (MoB) was my first port of call, and despite its title, there wasn't a great deal in there (that I could see). The MoB is actually housed in the city hall, and as you go in to the right was a gallery, to the left was some museum exhibits (which were closed) and upstairs was the city hall chambers (which were appeared unlocked when I ventured up there accidentally).

The gallery was showing off some local photography of Brisbane and general Australian life. It was quite good really, with some kind of competition going on between different categories and with special recommendation photos from the judges etc. The other exhibition was a bit of a disappointment, because as I said above they'd closed it off. The only thing remaining was another art exhibition, this time from a local artist. To be honest I didn't really get what it was about, with her paintings trying to symbolise random inhalations of breath and unique moments in time, whilst looking very similar in my opinion. All quite strange really.

Later on I crossed over the Brisbane River to the cultural hub of the city which includes art galleries (my next stop), concert halls, college buildings and convention centres etc. I was looking for the Brisbane Gallery of Modern Art (which is free entry like the MoB). This was a vast building with all kinds of art medium (paint, video, audio, sculpture etc) and artists from the local area, country-wide and from all over the world.

Modern Art is a tricky thing to try and analyse (and I'm far too dumb to start), but I saw some interesting stuff lets say, including several videos which were rather strange. There was some political pop art which was quite cool and some older bits which were good. There was even a water feature. But before I go down the route of becoming an art critic (which I'm not), I decided to leave and sit out in the sun for the rest of the afternoon by the river.

After visiting Brisbane I thought of it in many ways as like a smaller version of London. With its massive river running through the middle, of which many things sit near and are based by, and with the vibrant cultures of the city centre (whilst we were in the city there was an audio play going on right in the middle of the shopping area) and in the outer suburbs, there is plenty to do there. It just suffers from a lack of being a Sydney or Melbourne. Whilst its nice and clean and building itself up - theres just not quite enough to rival the other Australian cities...yet.

After Brisbane we continued on our way down the coast to Byron Bay and over the Queensland - New South Wales border (and bizarrely an hour ahead of GMT). At this point I'll hand over to Laura (whose not here but has promised to write up on this to discuss) as she fell in love with Bryon whilst we were there.

After Byron came Port Macquarie, similar in size to Hervey Bay, but slightly different in that it wasn't really a major beach resort (there was one somewhere I think). We'll remember Port (as its apparently known locally) for its spiders and its sea kayaking. Our camp sight at Port was quite nice really, and very competitively priced. But it was home to a massive assortment of spiders which really unsettled us walking around at night. Laura had bought a book of Australian Wildlife which means that we half a vague idea what we're up against, but it just makes us even more scared! The spiders were literally hanging off anything that was physically capable of being hung off as we walked around. Just think of the film Arachnophobia (sp?)

In the morning, having survived the spiders we decided to do some some sea kayaking, and eventually managed to hire three single person kayaks at the local quay. I hadn't kayaked before, I think Laura had once or twice, and anyone who knows Chris knows that he's a rower (which is pretty much the same thing). I found the main problem to be having nothing to sit against other than the little bump in the boat to sit in - therefore the tops of my legs and my lower back to the strain and despite what you may think my arms were fine. We paddled our way at various different speeds and capabilities round a natural island at the Port, which was a preserved nature park, home to pelicans, many other birds, and also a few dolphins who popped up when a local tourist catamaran went past. The kayaking was an experience lets say, and it left a lasting impression on my as I forgot to protect my legs from the sun (BIG mistake!).

After Port, came the second major stop (city stop anyway) in our Australian trek - Sydney.

I was again lucky enough to be driving as we came into Sydney and the most unbelievable thunderstorm and rainstorm I've ever seen. We literally had about 10cm of surface water in about two minutes on the roads and 5 metres of visibilty during the rains, whilst the lightning lit up the sky above!

Eventually we made it into the suburbs and the next challenge was finding our camp site which took us about 20 minutes. It was a relief when we pitched up (although it was the most expensive site of the trip so far) and got something to eat.

The next day was all about sight-seeing. We got ourselves a week's travel card for bus, train and ferry and made our way into the city. We got off at Circular Quay which anyone who's been to Sydney will know is the station right at the waterside where the Opera House sits, and with a great view of the immense Harbour Bridge. We stayed around there for most of the morning. We took loads of photos of the Opera House and the Bridge then got something to drink and headed to the Museum of Sydney. On the way however, we got stopped by a British street performer, who was doing amazing stunts and tricks. The guy was quite good (he dropped whilst juggling a few times but it was windy) considering he was juggling knives on a bike whilst circling a handful of (un)lucky people from the crowd on the frame of the bike. After that he juggled a knife, fire and an apple whilst balancing on the frame of his bike....up a 22-foot pole. The guy was really good, and bantered with the crowd and any passer by lucky enough to be in his field of vision.

After giving the performer our dinner money we went on to the Museum of Sydney, which shows how the first penal colony was build up by the British and how that settlement became Sydney. It then had a massive exhibit on the Sydney Harbour Bridge, and its impact on the city and how it came to be. It was actually really interesting stuff, particularly the film they had put together about the bridge.

After that we walked round Sydney more, going out to the Rocks and the oldest residence in Sydney (Caddick's Cottage I think - will check for next time) and up to the hill where the Sydney Observatory sits for some fine views of the city, particularly the Harbour Bridge which by now had been photoed at many angles by us three.

I'm running out of time unfortunately. The first half of this blog was written last Friday, and some more on Saturday, but because we don't have good access to the internet (the second half of this blog wasn't free as I wrote at the start) its very difficult to give the blog the time it deserves. I'll bring you all up to speed of all that went on in Sydney when we get to Melbourne I hope. On Saturday we finally say goodbye (or good riddens) to the van, and we're in hostels which should make life easier. Latest news is that we're staying longer in Melbourne to give us time to do the Great Ocean Road and to actually visit the city itself. Then off to New Zealand!

Yours in suspense,
Rich/Woodie

P.S You may have noticed that Locky is being referred to as Chris, and as I'm writing and don't talk about myself in the third person, I'll be referred to as Rich(ard). This is a long complicated story but is mainly cos Laura hasn't got a nickname and that we don't introduce ourselves as Woodie or Locky (or I don't) - so for blog purposes we'll be Richard and Chris respectively - sorry for confusion!

Posted by teamnojob 10.03.2007 1:14 AM Archived in Backpacking | Australia Comments (2)

Top Twenty First Experiences in South East Asia


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1. Learning to dive

2. Eating frogs legs

3. Squatting into a hole in the ground to pee (only Laura!)

4. Going through immigration at a train station

5. Getting the first of many stamps on our passport (exc. Chris)

6. Riding in a Tuk-Tuk and surviving

7. Eating from a street vendor (and not seeing it again later!)

8. Eating sweetcorn ice-cream - yes, it is as gross as it sounds

9. Travelling on a Catermaran at 30 mph in choppy seas....

10. Feeling sea-sick!!

11. Being an ethnic minority

12. Discovering 'BodyGlove' and its relative cheapness in Malaysia

13. Going on a curved escalator (shopping centre in Singapore)

14. Driving a scooter through rush-hour traffic and surviving

15. Travelling first class

16. Trying the local alcohol - Singha beer and Sangsom rum

17. Eating a greasy English fry-up in 30 degree heat

18. Going to an Imax movie (for Laura)

19. A foreign country having English plug sockets (Malaysia)

20. Learning two Thai words (in two weeks that doesn't seem that impressive, but it is a very hard language!)

Posted by teamnojob 01.03.2007 10:28 PM Archived in Backpacking | Singapore Comments (4)

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